Italy exudes romance and the charms of European life, but no other coastal town nails this down better than Portofino. After the incredible Cinque Terre, this may well be the most well-known spot in the Ligure region. An infamous stomping ground for the well-to-do and famous, here is where they park their superyachts and folic under the Mediterranean sun.
But for those who long for something a bit less pretentious, Portofino offers all of her other riches to us in spades. The olive groves among lush hills of Cypress trees create an inviting backdrop if you venture out of town. And who can deny the appeal of multi-colored buildings pressed right up against the water’s edge, with the bustle of the marina?
What is really wonderful about Portofino is that the old blends seamlessly with the new. Get past the decadent waterfront with those yachts, trendy restaurants, and high-end boutiques, and start to really explore old Portofino in the way of ancient cobblestone streets and exquisite churches built into the cliffs above the port. But no matter where you look, the scene will resemble the finest picture postcard and will beg you to explore on foot.
Likewise, the town just before Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, it seems, has more authenticity, and is a little less showy – with an array of great restaurants, local boutiques, and the lovely Villa Durazzo on a hill overlooking the sea.
Pro Tip: For such a popular destination, Portofino is tiny. During the high season (and even the shoulder seasons) if you are renting a car, be prepared for parking challenges. If you can, use Santa Margherita Ligure as your base for visiting the Italian Rivera, and take the boat from there to Portofino, which is a very walkable town.
Things to See and Do in Portofino/Santa Margherita Ligure
Portofino. Visit San Giorgio Church. Situated high atop a hill overlooking Portofino bay, this church has had a turbulent past, as it was destroyed and rebuilt several times. It originally dates back to 1154 and is stunning in its Romanesque architecture. It contains the remains of St. George, the village’s patron saint. Outside, its courtyard offers sweeping views of the town and bay below.
Portofino Regional Park. With lots of great hiking trails, this park offers both stunning coastal routes and more inland walks. There’s a wooded area to the north, and the southern part is more grassland, with lots of wildflowers. Olive trees abound here too.
In Santa Margherita Ligure, the shining star is the d’Antiochi Church, which dominates the main square in town. It is Baroque in architecture and dedicated to the town’s patron saint, Saint Margaret of Antioch. But you HAVE to go inside, for there you will find every surface intricately decorated in the most impressive of ways. With gold leaf, stuccowork, and elaborate carvings, it is a feast for the eyes.
Spend a day on the beach. In Santa Margherita, swimming along the shores is popular, and when you’ve had your fill of the water, catch some rays, then come back early morning and watch the fisherman ring in their catch of the day. Who knows? You may indeed have the fruits of their labor for dinner that evening.
Explore Old Town. This is a pedestrian-only section, and the perfect way to spend the day leisurely exploring and appreciating the ochre and pink-hued architecture. This is where most of the shops are, and it’s also a great way to take in the local scene. You will not want for finding an amazing meal with all of the restaurants serving fresh pasta.
Take a walk along the harbor. Lined with palm trees, wander through the marina in the early morning and watch the fisherman do their thing. Sit on a bench and eavesdrop on the locals (but don’t be obvious about it unless you want to join in the conversation!)
Off the Beaten Path Portofino/Santa Margherita Ligure
San Fruttuoso Abbey. You will need to take the ferry to get to this off-the-beaten-path spot, which is available from either Portofino or Santa Margherita, as there is no road access. It is a small isolated location, most well-known for its Benedictine monastery, located at the base of a steep wooded slope near the water. The village dates back to the 10th century.
If you like to walk, then why not trek from Portofino to Santa Margherita? It is only an hour and is a completely coastal walk, affording you some spectacular views of the Ligurian Sea. There are actually two paths – one is right along the water, the other is a bit more inland through the trees – both are gorgeous. And when it’s all said and done for the day, enjoy an evening drink in one of either town’s local bars.
What to Eat in Portofino/Santa Margherita Ligure
Santa Margherita. It comes as no surprise that seafood is the name of the game when it comes to gastronomic experiences in both towns. At Ristorante La Darsena in Santa Margherita, you’ll find the best seafood in the area. But you’ll also find delectable Genovese staples such as green minestrone.
Dine alfresco in Portofino’s Piazzetta (if you want to see and be seen). It is full of everything from small bars to traditional eateries. Or consider Angolo 48, Santa Margherita’s floating restaurant. With authentic Italian cuisine and a beautiful atmosphere, it’s a dining experience you do not want to miss.
The pedestrian old town section of Santa Margherita is filled with all sorts of local restaurants to satisfy every taste and budget. They use fresh ingredients from the surrounding countryside, and seafood fresh from the marina in many of their offerings.
Where to Stay in Portofino/Santa Margherita Ligure
As mentioned above, many people like to stay in Santa Margherita and make their way by boat to Portofino, but if it’s your heart’s desire to stay where the rich and famous do, then the Eight Hotel Portofino cannot be beaten. Located right on the water’s edge, it has its own private beach, and you can gawk at all of those superyachts right from the privacy of your own room. However, you may want to book well in advance.
To continue the luxury in Santa Margherita Ligure, stay at the Santa Margherita Palace. For something a bit easier on the pocketbook, a stay at the Hotel Sant’Andrea is a winning choice.
One of our favorite hotels is the Hotel Continental. If you stay there you have to ask for a hotel with a porch overlooking the bay. It sits across the street from the Santa Margherita Palace but has a better view in my opinion.
Casey Barbles 
Jeff Yelton 